Turtle Racing 1-Piece brake mount question

BaddBaja

Well-known member
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551
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Texas
OK so I was trying to put on my tr 1piece brake mount and ran into an issue... The posts that the brake pads slide on seems to require me to drill out the pad's holes. Is this common? Or have I bent the posts/rods?
 

BaddBaja

Well-known member
Messages
551
Location
Texas
ok cool... the hpi part that the shaft moves will not drill out... I have some cheap sucky bits im using but it will not go through... Im buying some dewalt bits... i have a nice drill but junk bits
 

shreadhead

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OK so I was trying to put on my tr 1piece brake mount and ran into an issue... The posts that the brake pads slide on seems to require me to drill out the pad's holes. Is this common? Or have I bent the posts/rods?
Put the pad on and tighten the set screws, maybe even hold the pins together as you tighten the set screws
 

SJT

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742
Location
RI
Ran into the same prob installing the mount on my car, had to drill out the holes in the pad so it would move freely.
 

*JayVee*

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1,069
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Tampa, Florida
PIGGYBACK OFF THIS TR 1PC BRAKE THREAD... I also am having some binding issues now that its all installed. When I remove some of the securing hardware then it moves freely. When I install all the button and flat head screws as instructed and required...Brakes lock up and can not roll the rear wheels as instructed to test for binding. They are LOCKED UP!


...HELP!!!
 

*JayVee*

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Tampa, Florida
Mine are ok but as said above just drill out the pads holes
My issue doesn't seem to be the "PAD HOLES". Everything went together fine. The pins were a lil tight but my issue is final assembly. When all the screws are being installed from the top 1pc and TR top plate, apparently it tightens everything down and something is binding the brakes from rotating. when I back out the screws from the 1pc brake kit, everything rotates fine...Or maybe when tightened down its pushing on the pads then forcing the brakes bind...IDK! :huh2:
 

*JayVee*

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1,069
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Tampa, Florida
do u guys actually thing its because how tight the pads are on the pics? IDK because with out the hardware bolts down, all moves freely and I am able to initiate the brakes by hand pulling on the linkage and all seems to work fine...BUT! when I tighten the 2 button head screws on the TR 1pc kit or even the flat screws on the TR rear diff plate and brake kit...it all locks up hard! ...ANYONE???

I bought the T used and working perfect! Until now in my transformation full build! I guess I will remove it all today and assemble it off the T and see what is binding it if mo one here has experienced this same issue.
 

Inertia Racing Products

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1,583
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S.East,Texas
do u guys actually thing its because how tight the pads are on the pics? IDK because with out the hardware bolts down, all moves freely and I am able to initiate the brakes by hand pulling on the linkage and all seems to work fine...BUT! when I tighten the 2 button head screws on the TR 1pc kit or even the flat screws on the TR rear diff plate and brake kit...it all locks up hard! ...ANYONE???

I bought the T used and working perfect! Until now in my transformation full build! I guess I will remove it all today and assemble it off the T and see what is binding it if mo one here has experienced this same issue.
well amigo there are a couple of things to check.
1) make sure the brake cam is riding properly in the bearing on bottom, which is the top plate bearing.
I have run into the issue you are describing and after tear down I discovered that cam was not seated properly and it knocked out the little retainer wire on the upper plate bearing and the bearing came apart.. it's easy to make this mistake.
2) make double sure that the little tab on top of the transmission is fitted correctly in the upper plate slot. also make sure the trans is seated properly on th elower plate. in some cases you may have to trim debur or even open the square hole on the plate, especially if you have gone to an aftermarket lower plate and the TR billet diff.
3) make sure you remove the little plastic washers off the hex drive on the layshaft
4) when tightening everything down , do it in sequence , a little at a time on each bolt, and check the binding as you tighten each screw .
one of thi biggest mistakes I see is trying to tighten down the 2 bolts that go thru the 1 piece mount that go into the TR gear plate.

there are a lot of variables besides what I posted above, the wrong spacers on the motor mounting, lower plate and side mounts.
bent lower plate, bent side mounts.
what brakes you are using and are the shimed and installed correctly

my best advice is take your time, double and , even triple check as you are assembling , you will will eventually find the issue if you do so, and it will be the Ah Ha moment..Lol

I hope this helps
 

Carp Boyz

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Carp of course
I bet it is the plastic piece that goes on the disk brake Hub; It prevents the Disc Brake Rotor from falling out of the disk brake hub. The diameter of the stock HPI plastic piece is too big which rubs the bottom of the transmission lower plate causing the bind.
+1 my money's on the plastic ring on the brake hex,happened to us twice,trimmed it down a bit and all was good
 

*JayVee*

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1,069
Location
Tampa, Florida
I bet it is the plastic piece that goes on the disk brake Hub; It prevents the Disc Brake Rotor from falling out of the disk brake hub. The diameter of the stock HPI plastic piece is too big which rubs the bottom of the transmission lower plate causing the bind.
+1 my money's on the plastic ring on the brake hex,happened to us twice,trimmed it down a bit and all was good
I know exactly what pc u are talking about! I was even looking at that pc to as a possibility. Now I know it is possible. Thanks!
 

ou2mame

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75
I had a major alignment issue.. Ended up loosening the rear brace and wiggled it into the tranny plate and everything fits nice and snug.
 

Monsterman

MonstermanHBF
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You guys having fitment and install issues need to remember a few things.. You are replacing stock plastic parts & thinner aluminum parts with new billet parts. The clearances are going to change and the flex wont be there.. You need to loosen all of your aluminum and billet parts up when installing other or new billet parts to get things to install easier..

Just an FYI if you haven't figured that out by now, I've learned that over the years after fighting parts for hours :oops:
 

AmosMoses

Well-known member
Messages
410
Location
Minooka, Il.
You guys having fitment and install issues need to remember a few things.. You are replacing stock plastic parts & thinner aluminum parts with new billet parts. The clearances are going to change and the flex wont be there.. You need to loosen all of your aluminum and billet parts up when installing other or new billet parts to get things to install easier..

Just an FYI if you haven't figured that out by now, I've learned that over the years after fighting parts for hours :oops:
+1 on that! Something I have recently learned.
I'm still placing my money on the plastic washer behind the hex nut being a problem for some..... :D
 

*JayVee*

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1,069
Location
Tampa, Florida
Well...For those 2 who said it was the black thin ring behind the disc assembly...WAS 100% CORRECT!!! I came home and messed with it again. Removed the entire top plate and 1pc brake kit as one... Played with it by hand and found it was the bearing washer with the qtr moon cut to clear the disc was the issue and re-installed it... Then BOOM! Brakes still locked up! At this point I am about to have the very first Baja to fly without power of the engine...LOL!

So, leaving it on since I fixed the washer bearing and have it clearing the disc, I watched every single pc and remembered the black ring u guys mentioned. I took a flashlight and looked through the opening just over thye rear right upper A arm to get a good view and there it was!!!! PINCHED UNDER THE 1PC TR BRAKE KIT!!! Ding Ding Ding!!!

Thanks Fellas!...LOVE THIS SITE! ~ Not only enthusiast but real mechanics and builders alike!
 
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