Is this normal for a TR trans case?

Tuskony

Well-known member
Messages
783
Are these two things normal? Or am I doing something wrong??

First one is some heavy slop in the idler gear. I did this exact same thing with my stock trans case and it had 0 play at all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL7nInt5C-A

Next up is the bottom of the trans case where it bumps out and sits inside the hole in the chassis. Its a pretty loose fit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9oiCdz-_N0

Stock trans case for comparison. No screws used it's just a really good fit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRM2Qzl3Jbo

Thanks in advance!! :gunsmilie:
 

Dave SWE

Well-known member
Messages
246
The idle gear slop seems a bit to much.
Put a thin o-ring on each side?
The cassis slop would is needed to actually use it as a quick-diff.
The first ones was tight and impossible to remove the back cover without loosing everything up.

Or just ask TR what they think....
Good videos of the problems!
 

Tuskony

Well-known member
Messages
783
The idle gear slop seems a bit to much.
Put a thin o-ring on each side?
The cassis slop would is needed to actually use it as a quick-diff.
The first ones was tight and impossible to remove the back cover without loosing everything up.

Or just ask TR what they think....
Good videos of the problems!
I think I am going to try and shim the idler gear but its damn near impossible (for me atleast) to find 17x19x0.1mm shims online! Or any variation of that. I'll keep hunting.

The slop in the chassis makes perfect sense! I figured there was a reason.

Thanks a bunch! :chinese:
 

Dave SWE

Well-known member
Messages
246
I always glue my bearings inside the QD to make sure the bearing don't wear out the seats in the QD.
Yes, it becomes a total p.i.t.a. to take apart, but works fine.
 

Dave SWE

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Messages
246
I think I am going to try and shim the idler gear but its damn near impossible (for me atleast) to find 17x19x0.1mm shims online! Or any variation of that. I'll keep hunting.

The slop in the chassis makes perfect sense! I figured there was a reason.

Thanks a bunch! :chinese:
How much play is there?
 

zignzag

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4,474
Location
North Vancouver, B.C.
As far as the tranny fit to the chassis it makes sense for a loose fit to remove the rear piece plus once its bolted down and snugged up it should be fine. Not sure what to do about the play for the gear though, seems like a lot. Have you tried assembling the whole tranny with all the bearing and gears installed to see if the gear still moved around a lot. I'd call or email turtle racing and ask them about the issues your having, its possible it may be a defective part(s) and maybe they'll send another one.
 

Tuskony

Well-known member
Messages
783
As far as the tranny fit to the chassis it makes sense for a loose fit to remove the rear piece plus once its bolted down and snugged up it should be fine. Not sure what to do about the play for the gear though, seems like a lot. Have you tried assembling the whole tranny with all the bearing and gears installed to see if the gear still moved around a lot. I'd call or email turtle racing and ask them about the issues your having, its possible it may be a defective part(s) and maybe they'll send another one.
It doesn't seem to effect it all that much. I put in everything but the diff (waiting on toobz) and assembled it and then hooked my drill up to the bolt on the craftwerks layshaft and spun the tranny over and full rpm on the drill. Didn't seem to do anything other than run smooth!

I will probably just look for shims :D
 

Baja5bOBR

Well-known member
Messages
165
That case should be tight in the chassis, at least side to side anyway. It's got a chamfered edge so it can be taken out easy. I would say that way to much slop and all the forces will go on the screws.
Take same some sizes and email TR and see if you have a dud.
 

Tuskony

Well-known member
Messages
783
This is happening now that the diff is assembled.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOgkNPFUArw[/ame]
 

Baja5bOBR

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Messages
165
Your not having much luck, not sure if that is a big deal but mine was tight.
I think you may have gotten 1 that's passed quality control, either get the 1 you got checked for size or get it replaced. IMHO it needs replacing anyway, should be a tight fit in the chassis other wise it's not doing it's job.
 

Tuskony

Well-known member
Messages
783
The shafts on the drive cups are 12mm I do believe. I shouldn't have to shim my diff 1mm thats insane. Along with the loose chassis fit and the loose idler gear I'm contacting TR. The diff can shift over enough to rub on the case! This would not be good with my fm 30.5!

It just sucks my build is set back now. Living in Canada with shipping times it could be awhile before I see a new case! I'll see what they have to say :D

Cheers
 
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Baja5bOBR

Well-known member
Messages
165
What ever it takes to take the slop out is what you have to do. You will never get a perfect fit. As a matter of fact bolt on the other half on and see what the play is like. Been down this road with my nitro's.
With all due respect a baja has a bit more power then any nitro, to much slop will cause major problems.
The diff can be shimmed to take the slop out, im 99% sure mine fitted almost perfect with out shimming.
My main concern is the fit with the chassis, I would not fit on that basis alone. Any decent motor or crash is going to causs that to twist, then worse case naff your entire drive train up.

OP do bolt it all together and make sure it's OK, but IMHO the chassis slop is deff a no no.
 
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Tuskony

Well-known member
Messages
783
I of course have done a Bolt up with the back half however the back half has nothing to do with the 1mm slop from side to side. With how much this trans case costs With the issues I'm having I'm sure TR will do what they can to help me.

And yes baja5bobr the chassis slop is concerning.
 
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