Checklist for First Run

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USABaja5

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I would like to start a checklist for those people that are just getting their bajas. We have learned alot in the first 3 weeks of the Baja being released. Please keep it to oneliners, so its easier to read.

If you do not understand the oneliner, then do a search. There is a longer explantion somewhere in the forum.

HPI Online Baja Manual

Video Tutorial
 
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USABaja5

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Check each screw to make sure it was tightened at the factory.

Check the steering servo saver.

Do not use the fail safe brake hold for more than 25 seconds.

Charge the Nicad batterywith the wall charger the first time. After that you can switch to another charger.

25:1 mix for the first 1/2 to full gallon. Then use anywhere form 25:1 to 40:1.
 

Timmahh

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as a preventive option. clean out all greese in pullstarter, replace with Dry Grafite lube.
Cover Pull Starter with screen to keep dirt down to a minimum, but allow as much airflow as possible.

check fail safe operation is correct.

check that throatle butterfly is opening fully. i ve seen 2 so far ( the only 2 ive seen. lol) that needed linkage stop adjustments.

Be aware your stock battery may false peak the first few charges. mine did, neighbors didnt.

all i got for now
Timmahh
 

TNB

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  • 1 - READ the instructions that ship with the HPI Baja5B.

    2 - Then READ the instructions again before driving the Baja5B.

    3 - Prepare Baja5B for run and prepare photography equipment.

    4 - Run Baja5B with a friend--very important for photo ops.

    5 - Take photos, edit photos, create gallery, and upload.
 

air1kdf

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After you wish you had more bottom end, just remove the stinger.

Richen the low speed needle by about 1/4ish turn.
 

Darkside

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Keep an eye on the driver side engine mount screw on the bottom of the chassis. The one on my buggy does not seat fully into the counter sink hole. Thread-locked it and cranked it down as far as humanly possible. Also, as you run the Baja more and more, keep track of how much time your're getting from the Rx pack. I installed a venom battery voltage meter...while I'm waiting for the HPI LED light/voltage meter kit :)
 

RigPig

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South Australia
Mine took 2-tanks to loosen up a bit and the clutch seemed to be slipping a little too but after 2-tanks it feels totaly different. I was dissapointed for about 5 minutes but now . . . . :wink: sweeeet!!!
 
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what i SHOULD've taken with me the fuirst time i ran my 1:5 scale.

Glue for tires.
a screwdriver ranging from normal and small philips and straight set.
Inbus, the one with the 5 sides that is used for most parts on FG cars, ranging from 1.5mm-5mm.
fully charged battery, preff. 2.
gas.
oil.
about 10 spare bodyclips.
a full set of AA cells.
a tool to remove the tires/rims.
And the most important thing I lacked by far:
A LOT OF FLUID, NOT beer, and of course food.

a list of what problems I had the first day:
after about 20F my tires came lose.
after getting on-road tires, the batt went dead after 2 hours of continous connection, drove the car for about 30 mins tops during that 2 hours, the rest it was standing still.
 
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I just gotta say, HOLY CRAP! .... I removed the stinger from my exhaust and richened her up just a tad..... WOW! Add a little bottom end? The different is night and day! (I think I might have lost a TINY top end speed though).

I'm just completely stoked at the difference, its a new buggy all over again!
 

EarthSurfer

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I have to add to the air filter tips. The stock filter is what is called "open cell foam", and not any oil will do. Without foam filter oil (which is super tacky, and can be found at any dirt bike shop--ex. PJ1 or Bel-Ray filter oil)), or any oil at all, the open cells will allow dirt to pass right through. I learned this lesson back in 88 when I failed to check my open cell foam filter on a brand new 1988 Honda CR250. I rode in the sand for a week before checking the filter. Guess what--they did not oil it and the finger wipe test in the intake boot removed globs of sand. The probelm with regular oil, instead of a tacky filter oil is it can run to the bottom of the filter from gravity, leaving the top of the filter dry over a bit of time. The super tacky oils can clog a filter though,--so I saturate them good and remove as much as possible with paper towells.
 

fastlad

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Engine Cooling Casing

when the car is run on grass i have found loads of grass being collected within the plastic casing around the cylinder (loads of it as well) with a little care the case can be removed through the cage, this stops the engine over heating.

Can someone explain about "removing the stinger" from the exhaust??
 

TurtleRacing

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Removing the stinger is taking the tube on the back off, the extension tube.
Something I have learned about the grass & such, remove the body completely, run with out it. You'd be amazed how well this works.
 

magoo

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surat qld
i found with mine when i removed the cowlings that it would allow small rocks and stuff into the cooling fan/flywheel. i had a big rock get into the fan/flywheel and stop the engine. i had to pull it all down to get the dam thing out. it broke a couple of fins off too.
 
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