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FLM Extended arm confusion

Discussion in HPI Baja Suspension and Drivetrain forum, started by Marshall.

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  #1  
Old 09-11-2010, 04:44 PM
Marshall Marshall is offline
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FLM Extended arm confusion

This is unbelievable that a $300 product does not include a 10 cent page of instructions.

I emailed them, and was told simply to go to their website, when I had sent an email asking where the set screws go. There website does not even show the set screws, so that did absolutely nothing for me.

So I hope no one minds that due to their lack of support, I have to ask this here.

Two questions.



Where do the set screws go? There are more set screw holes on the arms than there are set screws provided.

Second, question. What am I supposed to do with the tie rod ends, when the outside factory ends are reversed threads, and the long tie rod set screws they sent are all standard threads?

I am basically screwed so to speak. If I want to thread them in to make the assemblies they want me to make, it means that I would be stripping out all of the threads that already exist in the plastic. I would like to have parts held in by full threads, not stripped threads.
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Old 09-11-2010, 04:49 PM
Dubsak Dubsak is offline
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Don't use the set screws, they are pointless. All the bushings are retained by the hinge pins anyway, so I don't see any advantage in using them. I honestly don't know what to tell you on the tie rods though, because I bought Gizmo's IRP extended tie rods before I installed my kit. Which rods came with your kit? There have been a couple different versions.
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  #3  
Old 09-11-2010, 04:57 PM
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cperez cperez is offline
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I didn't use the set screws and have had no problems. The tie rods went together fine for me, but i used them once and tossed them too much play. Get the IRP extended tie rods it is 500% better takes all the play out.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:15 PM
Marshall Marshall is offline
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They sent aluminum tubes with threaded ends. Then long set screws. The set screws thread into each end of the aluminum tube, and then the factory plastic rod ends with ball joints screw on to the set screws. Nuts act as stops so they dont turn while threading the ends on. Like I said, factory ends are reversed threads. The screws FLM sends are normal threads. So everyone must be crossthreading the plastic to put them on.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:34 PM
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That's weird, there should be 2 standard and 2 reversed. Is that the way the tubes are tapped also, to accept all standard threads? Doesn't make any sense at all. I would've thought they were set up like the irp rods where one side was standard and one was reversed, so you could just spin the tube to modify the adjustment.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:35 PM
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it wil be fine. plastic is very....... plastic. it can rethread and be perfectly strong.
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Old 09-11-2010, 07:37 PM
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I would still get the IRP rods you will be much happier with the fit and function.
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Old 09-12-2010, 12:50 AM
Marshall Marshall is offline
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Their rods suck. I am definitely getting the IRPs.

Yeah, all threads are standard. You have to back out each side a little, then tighten the nuts.

Now I have no idea what they want out of the front shock tower setup.

There are bare aluminum spacers included, two for the hub carriers which I used, but another two for something else that was in the front suspension bag.

It blows my mind that this company does not even have close to complete web instructions, after the fact that that they do not include bag instructions.
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Old 09-12-2010, 12:57 AM
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Will this help? Click on "FastLane Arm Kits"


http://www.fastlanemachine.net/hpi-nitro-baja-howto.php
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall View Post
Their rods suck. I am definitely getting the IRPs.

Yeah, all threads are standard. You have to back out each side a little, then tighten the nuts.

Now I have no idea what they want out of the front shock tower setup.

There are bare aluminum spacers included, two for the hub carriers which I used, but another two for something else that was in the front suspension bag.

It blows my mind that this company does not even have close to complete web instructions, after the fact that that they do not include bag instructions.
Which version do you have, the v1 tower or v2? If you have the v1, then those spacers go up against the tower for clearance of the shocks, then the long bar with 2 holes goes on the outside of the shocks acting as a brace. Or, they might be the ones that go on top of the hub carriers, underneath the upper arm rod ends. Hard to say without pics.
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:21 AM
Dunner Dunner is offline
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I got great bag instructions with my RPM arms.
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  #12  
Old 09-12-2010, 03:49 AM
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Ya get the irP rods they are way strong and look nice to if I mite add
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:40 AM
Marshall Marshall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
I got great bag instructions with my RPM arms.
...which probably didn't need any instructions to begin with!

I have the v2 kit. Yeah, I have been looking at the link given since the beginning. It is entirely vague. If you notice, they don't even show the top of the front shocks in their how to, and there are parts included that go there obviously.

Well, after figuring out that the shocks rubbed the suspension components any other way, I came to the conclusion that the second set of spacers must be placed between the shock tower and the piece that grasps the top of the front shocks.

A lot of confusion for many people I'm sure, which would have been prevented by someone actually covering the product installation correctly, running it through the office desk jet, and then sending it through the copy machine. What a concept.

I got the killer cables, and found that clearance is too close on the FLM arms for the sway bar ball cups to fit if the killer cable is placed inboard on the arm. Since the best cable alignment comes from having them on the inside of the arm, it is required to dremel the outsides of those ball cups for clearance when running the FLM arm set.
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:30 AM
Dunner Dunner is offline
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I haven't decided if I want to put the RPM arms on now of wait till I need to. I still have two stock uppers and one stock lower spare. Do I wait or put them on now?
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:37 AM
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28.5 ron 28.5 ron is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
I haven't decided if I want to put the RPM arms on now of wait till I need to. I still have two stock uppers and one stock lower spare. Do I wait or put them on now?
you wrap em in saran wrap.
This thread has nothing to do with your RPM arms dude, gac.
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:03 PM
Marshall Marshall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 28.5 ron View Post
you wrap em in saran wrap.
This thread has nothing to do with your RPM arms dude, gac.
Tell it like it is!
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  #17  
Old 09-12-2010, 04:43 PM
Marshall Marshall is offline
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Here is a picture for you guys, of the front.

You can kind of see how close the sway bar ball is to the arm with the killer cable installed. A little plastic removed from that area of the ball cup should take care of the problem.


Last edited by Marshall; 09-12-2010 at 04:47 PM.
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  #18  
Old 09-12-2010, 05:04 PM
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tnnhoward tnnhoward is offline
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The November RCDriver has a complete article on installation of the FLM arms on the Baja with over 20 pictures and how to instructions. I can scan it and post ir, but there may be copy right rules here. Just letting you know. Good instructions.
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