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Exhaust Gasket?

Discussion in HPI Baja Engine and Exhaust forum, started by JForestZ34.

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  #1  
Old 07-22-2009, 02:28 PM
JForestZ34 JForestZ34 is offline
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Exhaust Gasket?

I have the infamous gasket blow-out.. I have read mixed responces and have a question... I've got a couple more paper gaskets, I know of people that have upgraded to a copper gasket if that is even a upgrade. With my new gasket can I use Hi Temp RTV on that to help it hold up or what else could I do?


James

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  #2  
Old 07-22-2009, 02:48 PM
28.5 ron 28.5 ron is offline
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thats a good question, i tried rtv on a copper gasket and it still leaked, never tried the rtv on the paper ones, my paper ones blow every 2 to 3 tanks.
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:43 PM
mattjb mattjb is offline
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i dont think it will make a difference with the paper gaskets, theyll still obsorb a bit of fuel and oil and eventually go. i got tired of replacing the gaskets so i made my own from left overs in the garage and they still go eventually. right now im using that 1 minute gasket maker stuff for a gasket, cleaned out the threads and im using lock washers and red loctite and about a half gallon or so later no problems.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:26 PM
JForestZ34 JForestZ34 is offline
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Yeah but this gasket that just went was only MAYBE 4 tanks old.. They should last longer than that.. I have a craftsman weedwacker that's 12 years old and that gasket doesn't leak... Why do these leak so much?



James
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:29 PM
badboy2 badboy2 is offline
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my rear dom still leaks with copper one .
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:38 PM
gasser gasser is offline
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My rear dom never leaked with the copper gasket and some permatex high temp rtv gasket sealer. Are your bolts comming loose and causing it to leak?
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:02 AM
mattjb mattjb is offline
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youre weedwacker isnt experiencing the vibrations caused by jumping and driving that the baja sees.
what gasser said, you can check youre bolts, clean the threads and use loctite. i had to use red loctite and split lock washers to keep my bolts from coming loose. but even with those measures i was still blowin gaskets every couple of tanks.
from what ive read on hear the copper gasket with a high temp rtv is the best solution, but im cheap and just used the rtv gasket maker no copper gasket. some methods work better for different people
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:20 AM
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Murdered 5T Murdered 5T is offline
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I use the thicker paper gasket, I've run every weekend for 3 months now. The KEY is keeping those exhaust bolts tight.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:25 AM
cbumdumb cbumdumb is offline
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I use copper gasket that I anneal also tried many different hi temp silicone rtv and all failed both black and red but one has withstood better than the two previous and that is ultra copper . I coat the annealed copper gasket both sides and let dry to touch . Then install my pipe with red locktite . after first run I re torque with pipe hot . Have been working well . recently had to pull pipe to mod and all I had was hi temp black tried it again and it failed within on tank. So back to copper ultra rtv for me. Also until I annealed the gasket nothing sealed for very long.

I wish more pipes came with a thicker flange and studs instead of thin flanges and machine screws . I know it would be cost prohibitive but a thick flanged with a recess for a copper or similar soft metal oring would be nice.

For years I had fought header gaskets on my daily rides . While I won't go into name brands the one I use now has a thick machine flange that uses only rtv and has been trouble free for years now.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:30 AM
MUDDY5B MUDDY5B is offline
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With my jet-pro i never seemed to blow a paper gasket as alot of the guys said make sure the exhaust bolts are tight, i use red loctite on the exhaust bolts. You dont have to anneal the copper gaskets however ive heard you can do, i use a red high temp RTV with my copper gasket and its never come lose. In the long run its cheaper to buy a copper gasket for the exhaust and the head as they can be re-used however you may need to dremel the copper head gasket down as they had a manufacturing problem with them at one time and didnt perfectly fit.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:02 PM
Crashandburn80 Crashandburn80 is offline
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My gasket just blew out also. I have one on each side of the spacer. Is that how they are supposed to be? I didn't get any instructions with it.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:09 PM
mattjb mattjb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashandburn80 View Post
My gasket just blew out also. I have one on each side of the spacer. Is that how they are supposed to be? I didn't get any instructions with it.
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...t.A/id.1697/.f

this is how its supposed to look, they blow out in different ways.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:13 PM
Crashandburn80 Crashandburn80 is offline
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I know what thay look like what my question is, Do I need one on each side of the xport/spacer?
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:42 PM
gasser gasser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashandburn80 View Post
I know what thay look like what my question is, Do I need one on each side of the xport/spacer?
Yes you do...It requires 2 gaskets, otherwise you got steel to steel contact which will leak for sure. Here is what I use on both my pipe gaskets and head gasket, which is also copper. Permatex sensor-safe ultra copper high temp RTV silicone. Available at Auto Zone or any auto store. Available in a 3 oz tube which will last forever. Just apply a very thin coat to EACH side of each gasket and let it set over night. I have never had a pipe leak or a head leak using this stuff with copper gaskets, I also put a bead of it around the crimping of my stock 5T cannister muffler and it has stayed on and not given me a drop of leakage like some guys experience. I swear by this stuff. If it still leaks after doing all this then your bolts are comming loose or your not getting a correct pipe flange to cylinder fit. This stuff will withstand intermittent temps up to 700 degrees!
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:47 PM
mattjb mattjb is offline
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youll need a gasket for every conection, so if youre running the x-port spacer you have two metal to metal contacts and two gaskets will be needed. i take it this is what youre referring to.
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...t.A/id.1802/.f

damnit, gasser beat me to it! lol
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:49 PM
gasser gasser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasser View Post
Yes you do...It requires 2 gaskets, otherwise you got steel to steel contact which will leak for sure. Here is what I use on both my pipe gaskets and head gasket, which is also copper. Permatex sensor-safe ultra copper high temp RTV silicone. Available at Auto Zone or any auto store. Available in a 3 oz tube which will last forever. Just apply a very thin coat to EACH side of each gasket and let it set over night. I have never had a pipe leak or a head leak using this stuff with copper gaskets, I also put a bead of it around the crimping of my stock 5T cannister muffler and it has stayed on and not given me a drop of leakage like some guys experience. I swear by this stuff. If it still leaks after doing all this then your bolts are comming loose or your not getting a correct pipe flange to cylinder fit. This stuff will withstand intermittent temps up to 700 degrees!
Just to clarify, When i say to let set overnight, you have to install the gaskets immediately after applying the sealer and tighten everything up and then let it set overnight. Hope this makes sense.
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:02 PM
Crashandburn80 Crashandburn80 is offline
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That answers my question. I thought there should be two gaskets but wasn't sure. Thanks for the help and I'll try that rtv sealant.
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