Received a package on Friday, one item of which was the super cool B&T front brake kit.
Must say I really like the quality of the parts in this kit.
So anyway - heres my installation experience / write up which may help those considering / evaluating brakes for their bajas.
In the absence of instructiosn - I made it up from looking at pics in other threads - so if there are errors please LMK.
Remove the two stock screws(& washers) marked with the arrows (pic 4). Insert headless long screw into top hole (pic 5), placing stock black washer just removed, and lock nut to rear side of hub (pic 6)
Insert long cap screw, C, and stock washer in bottom hole, from rear and place washer E & cyclindrical spacers on projecting part of the two screws (pic 7). Place rotor blade onto wheel hex.
Offer up caliper assembly (pic 9) to the screw ends, after loosening the brake pad screws to allow free fit of rotor.
Thread cable through brake arm on caliper and screw/sping set up (pic 13)
What you may notice is that if you tighten the wheel nuts, the brake rotor/wheel may bind with the hub and not turn freely as expected.
This is because there is not enough play between the wheel hex and hub housing (pic 11) and may occur, particularly if you’ve done the e-clip mod. In this case you may need to shim it away from the housing using FE Pro series shim kit (pic 12) - probably not as many as Ive shown here diagrammatically.
Place cable sheath H on cable G (pic 14, 15)
A hole dremelled out of the centre of the front body piece (pic 16) is what I found to work best for free mocement of the cables, eg when full lock steering etc.
The configuration shouldn't be excessively stiff that it hinders the turning motion. Also the cables should be long enough so that they don't pop out of the screw holders at the caliper end (may occur as I trimmed the red ones when test fitting).
My preference was for red coloured calipers though did not want to use the red sheaths that came with the kit. These were changed for black 'Jagwire' ones(pic 17). Readily available from bike shops etc - just make sure they are of the internal lined type (pic 19).
Position the cable mount part J and replace the stock screw with the supplied cap headed screw M in the base of the right side shock tower support (pic 20).
You will note that the spacer K may need cutting to the right height, depending on what set up you have, eg whether a TR is in place, and in my case the Mielke bracket (dim x required in my instance - dim Y standard)
Spacer K cut to size. Spacer fitted with supplied button headed screw L.
Insert the two sheath end into the cable mount J and push cable through (pic 24). Thread through the clamp N. Attach one end of the servo arm link wire P to the servo arm and insert the other into the central hol;e of the clamp. The link wire will need to be curved to suit (pic 26) and the clamp end trimmed.
Once the set up is near correct, trim the two cables (each are 2m in length!) and crimp end cap protectors in place (from a bike shop).
The clamp seemed to catch on the edge of the mount (even with bending the wire at various angles) at full throttle - so I made a skid plate to keep it level and motion smooth at all positions (pic 27,28,29)
Simplified diagram of front set up
Final installation
You will no doubt need to do some fine tweaking for the correct set up but thats the basics.
Raining for the psat two days - so no test run as yet
. They certainly lock up pretty good so far though.
Superb product Brice / B&T!
Today
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