Running the wiring for the CBE Failsafe/Killswitch

[boofwah]

Hey guys. I've done a search on CBE kill switch installs and I understand how to hook the thing up and adapt it to my Airtronics M11/Spektrum system, but how are you guys routing the wires out of the radio box, along the chassis and into the motor case to the kill switch. Any pics would be appreciated. I'm working on this, the CBE lights and the Craftwerks-RC light install this weekend. Getting really close to being done! Thanks in advance.

Jeff

[dmay815]

It's an AMS but same thing....I saw someone on here had used Dean's Connectors to make a connection right outside the radio box, I did the mod and I would highly recommend it...if you do the Dean's plugs, you can remove the radio box without it being a PITA...look below. Aren't Baja's awesome? No pics but I soldered the motor end leads about an inch from the plugs for the coil, heatshrank them and while I had the heat gun on the shrink bent them into the shape I wanted before the shrink cooled.

[boofwah]

AWESOME!!! Thanks for taking the time to take and post those pics! Did you pull the whole side of the motor off to get in there to solder? Thanks again.

Jeff

[Speedy]

thats a nice idea with the deans! will do the same.

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

I don't have pics but, mine goes out of the box the straight down to the chassis. I then ran it though some automotive vacum tubing along the chassis and then up to the motor right behind the gas tank.
Can't see it. I put my deans right by the motor but I am going to add a second connector that is by the radio box. I do think the deans may be a little over kill for what this is but oh well. I think a JST or a deans micro might work too and be a little less bulky.

[Speedy]

I was thinking micro deans. will try it, should work fine.

[jono0309]

I just bought a CBE killswitch aswell, and i have no ideas yet on what i am going to do...
Hopefully when this thread is done and dusted i can rob a few ideas, thanks guys.

[boofwah]

Geez! I built the whole buggy and didn't realize that I could undo the screws on the flywheel cover (on the side of the motor) and loosen the two engine mounting screws (on the chassis plate), and then remove the plastic shroud (covering the heat sink) to get to the engine push button kill switch (I'm such a comedian).

Anyways, that's the way I got to it. I'll throw some pics up of my install later on after I finish. Thanks for all the help, guys.

Jeff

[dmay815]

glad to help

[richmills]

Hi
Heres a few pics of my install.
I drilled through the radio box and pushed the two cables through. then soldered a connector so i can still easily take the radio box out still. i routed the cable under the air filter then under the motor plastics.
Rich

[boofwah]

First off I'd like to thank dmay815 and richmills for taking the time to post up some pics and help me through this ordeal. I used both of their ideas to make this work, and its not done either! I plan on getting some deans connectors to make quick disconnects for it. I'm sure that others will benefit from this thread as well.

Hmm...I sense a possible sticky for this thread..or even a relocation to the baja tutorials. USABaja5?

Anyways, here we go.

Initial access to switch. I did wind up removing the whole cover and portion of the rollbar pictured here. Might as well do it all first.

Red on the right...black on the left

The patient with surgical instructions

Where I notched the radio box for the killswitch and the Venom Power Meter wires to pass through

How I broke the tab off. I folded in and out and then finally twisted the piece off.

ain't it perty...5mm across

My rats nest. It was tidied up more. Right next to the battery is my MPI Maxx Products ACC 134, 6.0V Voltage Regulator (no smoking the electronics now) and I also used a MPI Maxx Products Universal Double Link 3" Extension to combine the CBE kill switch and Venom Power Meter into the aux channel on the Spektrum rcvr. I did have problems getting the kill switch to work and moved the double link and Venom Power Meter to the throttle/brake channel.

Distance used to notch the radio box lid (39mm)

Radio box lid notch complete

Lid shut, and it did need a little more trimming.

I suck at soldering

After a little re-programming on the M11...Eureka!!! M11 re-programming can be seen here: http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh...be+kill+switch

Modified harness installed

My wiring routing. Not shown here, but just as richmills did I reamed a small hole in the motor shroud and tie wrapped the wiring to it to keep it from getting hung up in the flywheel.


Hope this helps some of you. It helped me!

Jeff

[Speedy]

Right next to the battery is my MPI Maxx Products ACC 134, 6.0V Voltage Regulator (no smoking the electronics now) and I also used a MPI Maxx Products Universal Double Link 3" Extension to combine the CBE kill switch and Venom Power Meter into the aux channel on the Spektrum rcvr

what are those? links?
looking good

[boofwah]

Yeah. Part 3163...http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-3.html

Thanks, and thanks to Rob for making this a sticky!

Jeff

[Grayedout]

Originally Posted by boofwah

First off I'd like to thank dmay815 and richmills for taking the time to post up some pics and help me through this ordeal. I used both of their ideas to make this work, and its not done either! I plan on getting some deans connectors to make quick disconnects for it. I'm sure that others will benefit from this thread as well.

Hmm...I sense a possible sticky for this thread..or even a relocation to the baja tutorials. USABaja5?

Anyways, here we go.

Initial access to switch. I did wind up removing the whole cover and portion of the rollbar pictured here. Might as well do it all first.

Red on the right...black on the left

The patient with surgical instructions

Where I notched the radio box for the killswitch and the Venom Power Meter wires to pass through

How I broke the tab off. I folded in and out and then finally twisted the piece off.

ain't it perty...5mm across

My rats nest. It was tidied up more. Right next to the battery is my MPI Maxx Products ACC 134, 6.0V Voltage Regulator (no smoking the electronics now) and I also used a MPI Maxx Products Universal Double Link 3" Extension to combine the CBE kill switch and Venom Power Meter into the aux channel on the Spektrum rcvr. I did have problems getting the kill switch to work and moved the double link and Venom Power Meter to the throttle/brake channel.

Distance used to notch the radio box lid (39mm)

Radio box lid notch complete

Lid shut, and it did need a little more trimming.

I suck at soldering

After a little re-programming on the M11...Eureka!!! M11 re-programming can be seen here: http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh...be+kill+switch

Modified harness installed

My wiring routing. Not shown here, but just as richmills did I reamed a small hole in the motor shroud and tie wrapped the wiring to it to keep it from getting hung up in the flywheel.


Hope this helps some of you. It helped me!

Jeff

Is that a Dx2.0 with a SR3000 RX? if so can you tell me which Fail safe you have ? I have just got a fail Safe from DDM and it does not work..? also will your fail safe cut out if you have low RX battery as well as out of range or low RX? sorry one question were can I get one..


thank!!!!!!


Andy

[boofwah]

Hey Andy. Let's see if I can answer all your questions.

- I'm using an Airtronics M11 radio with the SR3000 rcvr, and when I bound the two together I set it up with full brake.

- The failsafe that I am using is the Custom Baja Electrics failsafe/killswitch.

- What failsafe did you get from DDM that you are having issues with?

- At this time it will not cut out if the DDM rcvr pack gets low (hence the use of the Venom Battery Monitor). It only works with a loss of the xmtr signal, and it will kill the engine when I hit trim 3 on my m11 (see the M11 re-programming link I posted if you want to know what that means). I could put my Venom Smart Temp on there and set it up for low battery voltage, but three failsafes? Wow, that's a little crazy. I bought the CBE switch so I could remotely kill the motor (never know when the throttle linkage might stick, or break).

- I bought my CBE failsafe/killswitch from Mark over at TGN.

I hope I answered all your questions.

Jeff

[Dirby]

the system that i have is a little different.
it will kill the motor if it has any loss of signal
tx batt gets to low
rx batt dies
tx batt falls out of tx.
or anything else that happens
i can shut motor off from tx useing a trim switch
also if you shut off the rx useing the power switch on the side of the radio box that will kill the engine
Diemaster is the one who made theese switches and he told me how to hook them up.
i truley believe this is the BEST hop up i have put on my Baja's to date.
i can kill the engine from the tx or if anything else happens like broken wire batterys fall out this will automaticly kill the engine.
Dirby

[Grayedout]

Originally Posted by boofwah

Hey Andy. Let's see if I can answer all your questions.

- I'm using an Airtronics M11 radio with the SR3000 rcvr, and when I bound the two together I set it up with full brake.

- The failsafe that I am using is the Custom Baja Electrics failsafe/killswitch.

- What failsafe did you get from DDM that you are having issues with?

AMS "Ms285 - AMS 2-Channel Failsafe for Spectrum 3PK HRS-PPM" it does not work! I have the battery meter but really what the SF to do this as my little boy 5yr old has a Baja and at time theres to much to think about.

- At this time it will not cut out if the DDM rcvr pack gets low (hence the use of the Venom Battery Monitor). It only works with a loss of the xmtr signal, and it will kill the engine when I hit trim 3 on my m11 (see the M11 re-programming link I posted if you want to know what that means). I could put my Venom Smart Temp on there and set it up for low battery voltage, but three failsafes? Wow, that's a little crazy. I bought the CBE switch so I could remotely kill the motor (never know when the throttle linkage might stick, or break).

what does the smart temp do? I will look that up

- I bought my CBE failsafe/killswitch from Mark over at TGN.

I hope I answered all your questions.

Jeff

I did see the link to the MHZ looks like it does it all? also the pico with mod

[Nitrogoon]

Here are a few pics of how I ran my wires


I used two micro deans plugs one by the motor so I can pull the motor and I dont have to pull all of the wire out with it, i also put one in the radio box so I can take that out without all the wire still attached, I put the wires in heat shrink tubing to keep the wires protected.

[vinrx7]

On my TGN failsafe/killswitch, i soldered the wires to the engine stop button at the existing connector but at the side of the stop button. Is this going to be a problem? From the photos above i see that the wires are soldered at the other end of the existing wires, more towards the engine side. Will this be a problem?
Attachment 3437

[Timmahh]

as long as they dont drop down into the flywheel you should be fine.
T